
While I was in SF I had the chance to dine with an old friend and the newest San Francisco Chronicle critic Bill Addison. He took me to a restaurant he was in the process of reviewing, Zagora. For more information about the overall experience, and not the food, watch for my posting coming soon to Paper Palate on the Well Fed Network. For Bill’s review go to
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2006/09/22/DDGUAL9HTM1.DTL&type=food
We started with the mamona salad, merguez sausage and chicken bastilla (pictured above). The mamona salad was a nice blend of cinnamony carrots, ruby grapefruit segments and spring greens with vinagrette. Individually the pieces did not stand out, but when eaten together in one bite it was a wonderful, piquant combination. The sourness of the grapefruit cut through what could have been cloying carrots and then was also complimented by the bitterness and saltyness of the salad.
The merguez sausage was flavorful. Garlicky and pungent, it puts many other boring Mexican chorizoes to shame. However, the pairing with olives and hummus didn’t do much to its cause the way the mamona salad did in its combination.
The bastilla was a curiosity in itself. Beautifully constructed, with a nice sprinkling of powdered sugar, it reminded me vaguely of fried ice cream. But then came the surprise inside, chicken with saffron. It’s a combination that I don’t quite understand. But as Bill pointed out, surely out there surely must make earth-shatteringly good bastilla. We also sat and pondered if it was a celebration of liberation from the French, seeing as the name seems to come from bastille.
From there we moved on to the entrees…
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